Many legendary watches are lost and then found, like the Rolex GMT worn by Marlon Brando in Apocalypse New or Jon Lennon’s Patek Philippe. Then there are some watches that many of us didn’t even know existed!
It was presumed earlier that only four Cartier Cheichs were in existence. And, now a few days back a never-seen-before Cartier Cheich in white gold emerged onto the scene, making connoisseurs skip a beat.
Well, this stunning Cartier timepiece was custom-made in 2010 for one of the most important Cartier collectors from the past decades. But before we unfold the name, let’s get into the story, shall we?
How it all started?
There’s a challenging race called the Paris-Dakar Rally where motorcycles race for around 6200 miles across the Sahara Desert. Cartier’s CEO and the race’s founder Thierry Sabine created the famous Cartier Challenge in 1984 according to which the back-to-back winner would be presented a brand new timepiece.
Motorcyclist Gaston Rahier won the Cartier Challenge two consecutive times in 1984 and 1985, making him the only motor racer to have won this prestigious Cartier Challenge. He was then awarded a special Cartier whose case design resembled the headscarf (aka Cheich) worn by the native men of the Sahara, the Tuareg men. To date, Gaston remains the sole recipient of the uniquely crafted Cartier Cheich celebrating his success.
History of the ultra-rare Cartier Cheich
Jacques Diltoer, former Creative Director of Cartier and Cartier’s President at that time, Alain-Dominique Perrin, designed the outstanding Cartier Cheich. The duo drew inspiration from the rally’s logo featuring the silhouetted face of a Tuareg wearing a Cheich (a traditional piece of cloth or scarf worn around the head as protection against the sun).
Cartier created four unique-looking Cheich models. The two original Cheich models were designed in 1983 with both having different case sizes and came with or without diamonds. The smaller Cheich model came with diamonds and the larger was made for the male winners. The male piece as you know now was awarded to Gaston Rahier and the smaller female timepiece never found a wrist because there was no other consecutive winner of the Cartier Challenge. Rahier’s watch stands out slightly from other models due to its inclusion of the traditional railroad-style minute track on the dial.
The third piece was created in 1985 for a potential winner and the fourth Cheich timepiece is believed to have been gifted by Perrin to Thierry Sabine. Two of the remaining Cheich models were never presented to anyone and continue to exist in the Cartier archive, while the fourth Cheich, the one owned by Perrin was believed to have been lost. And now, after all these years the watch showed its face to the world during Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches’ online auction held in Paris.
Who owned the newly-found white gold Cheich?
Unlike the Cheich models that came before, this new one is crafted entirely out of white gold. It was made in 2010 for the famous watch collector Seragnoli, who is also the author of the book Cartier Bianco. Seragnoli was deeply passionate about white metal watches and was one of the most significant Cartier collectors in the world.
While having a strong liking for white metal is understandable but Seragnoli’s love was adorably obsessive! He is also believed to be the biggest collector of white gold Patek Philippe watches. So, it only makes sense if the last piece of the rare Cartier Cheich is made of white gold.
How does the watch look?
Incredibly creative and fascinatingly bizarre is what we would call the Cheich. The case looks like a sculpture on your wrist, meticulously layered in white gold. The watch has a case size of the larger Cheich model and on the case back it is engraved ‘No.1’. Nestled within the dramatic folds is the signature Cartier-style dial with a combination of baton and Roman numeral hour markers, blue sword-shaped hands and a rectangular minute track. The key difference between the white gold and other models is that this watch is powered by Quartz.
The unique dial shape didn’t let Cartier implement bars screwed through the lugs to attach the strap. Contrary to conventional designs, the case back of the watch is intricately carved to accommodate a special fixture that securely holds the strap in place.
What we think
Nothing quite like it would ever be made again. This white gold Cartier Cheich is a design masterpiece and even though it wasn’t won or worn by a motorcyclist after winning the Sahara Desert tournament, but still is an important part of Cartier’s history.
Cartier has truly made an everlasting mark in fine watchmaking with the special case design, making Cartier Cheich one of its most celebrated and unique creations by far.
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